Kurama Mixed Rice

The amazing chestnut rice I cooked in the last post must have put me in a serious rice kind of mood, because here's another incredible rice dish, this one mixed with soy sauce-infused chirimen jako (dried, salted, tiny fish, a fantastic ingredient we'll get to in a minute) and sansho (intensely aromatic, seductive accent, ditto about getting into in a minute).

Okay, first, chirimen jako are tiny young sardines or anchovies that have been boiled then salted and dried, thus naturally preserved. They're a versatile ingredient that stores perfectly in the freezer -- I always keep couple of packs handy. Reconstitute them with boiling water (see below) and add to an omelet or quickly deep fry and sprinkle over salad or, well, rice. Another way to eat with rice is this traditional kurama preparation, which I found in the handy dandy "Traditional Japanese Recipe Book" (see this post). Here chirimen jako is simmered with sake, dashi, mirin, soy sauce and sugar, flavorings that impart an irresistible sweet/savory flavor and diminish the sense fishiness, one of the roles of sake and soy sauce. Ah, a two-fer-one deal. Note how everything balances nicely, too -- the savory and sweet, the flavor of the fish -- yep, another hallmark of Japanese cooking, that balance. The final touch is sprinkling with sansho, a relative of the Sichuan peppercorn. Sansho gives off an intense citrusy fragrance, and is more aromatic than hot.

Now, before we get to the method, question for y'all: Anyone can tell me what kurama means in this context? I can't find it in my dictionary, just curious. Here now the recipe...

• 5 1/4 ounces chirimen jacko (150 grams)
• 5 fluid ounces dashi
• 2 1/2 fluid ounces sake (use real sake, never "cooking sake")
• 3 fluid ounces mirin
• 3 tablespoons sugar
• 2 1/2 fluid ounces soy sauce
• 2 fluid ounces tamari
• 1 teaspoon sansho
• 2 cups cooked Japanese short grain rice

First, a few notes:

• You can find chirimen jako in the frozen section of Japanese markets.
• For dashi, follow this method, or buy dashi packs at Japanese markets, which is all-natural freeze dried dashi ingredients inside what look like big teabags. Pop them in water, bring to a boil and you got yourself some dashi (use leftover for miso soup).
• Why sugar in Japanese cooking? Interesting article that explains it here.
• Soy sauce vs. tamari, what's the difference? They're not the same, and one isn't "better" than the other (I've heard that). Soy sauce is brewed from soybeans, wheat and salt, the all-purpose fermented seasoning. Tamari was originally the runoff liquid from fermenting miso, but now produced on its own, it's darker and richer than soy sauce. It adds wonderful flavor, color and intensity to certain dishes, like here. If you don't have tamari, though, substitute with soy sauce (so 4 1/2 ounces soy sauce).
• Regarding rice, I prefer either white rice or haigamai, which is rice with the germ intact but the hull removed (brown rice has both the germ and hull), so it keeps its nutritious core but loses the outer bran. Cook it like white rice. I love this rice.

Now, the method:

1. Place chirimen jako in a colander and pour boiling water over it to rehydrate.
2. Add the chirimen jako, dashi and sake to a skillet or small saucepan and place over medium heat. When the liquid boils add the mirin and sugar
3. Cover with a piece of aluminum foil with a couple of holes poked into it, or an otoshibuta (see this post). When the liquid has reduced by half, about 3 minutes, add the soy sauce and tamari.
4. Simmer until the liquid has completely evaporated and been absorbed by the chirimen jako, about 5 minutes. Stir occasionally and be careful the chirimen jako doesn't burn when there's little liquid left (guess who almost did that)
5. Spread the chirimen jako on a sheet pan to cool. When it's cooled sprinkle the shansho over it.
6. Mix the chirimen jako with fresh, hot, steaming rice and serve!

Posted by Harris Salat in Rice | Permalink | Comments (7) | Email | Print

Comments (7)

Harris, I'm assuming chirimen jiko is a different thing entirely from the (non-refrigerated) packs of dried flying fish or baby sardines that are sometimes used as alternatives to bonito flakes in making daishi? Can't wait to try this one! Jim

Jim Freeman | Posted 10:44 11 December 2009

Kurama...an esoteric Buddhist temple located tot he northwest of Kyoto.

Louise | Posted 11:10 11 December 2009

Thanks for your comment, Jim. Yes, the chirimen jako are much tinier than the dried fish for dashi (called niboshi), wisps about 3/4-inches long, thin like pencil shavings. I usually find them in the frozen section in trays 3 by 4 inches in size (approx), sold two trays to a pack. Let me know how your cooking goes! Thanks, Harris

Harris Salat | Posted 12:11 11 December 2009

Thanks so much, Louise!

Harris Salat | Posted 12:12 11 December 2009

Where is chirimen jako in a grocery in japan? The refrigerated section? p.s. Is there any way to prepare fresh jako other than flash-frying? Not that there's anything wrong with that, it's just uses so much oil. Thanks!

Teri | Posted 15:14 11 December 2009

Hi Teri, thanks for your comment. In Japan if I remember correctly you can buy chirimen jako in the refrigerated section. Anyone in Japan care to chime in about this? Regrading preparation, you don't have to deep fry, in fact, just stick the chirimen jako in a colander and pour boiling water over them to revive, then cook away (like in this rice dish) -- Harris

Harris Salat | Posted 15:16 11 December 2009

Hi, Harris. I am a huge fan of chirimen sansho. While we were in Kyoto, and with the help of a friend there, I purchased a box of chirimen sansho from the kaiseki restaurant Kichisen. It is amazing. How I wish there was someone...maybe you?!...who could set up a connection to import this delicacy to the US. I've used the chirimen sancho on all sorts of dishes, from rice to noodles to topping grilled chicken or tamagoyaki. If you know of any good sources for chirimen sansho, please let your JFR fans know.

Mora | Posted 14:55 12 December 2009

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