66 Ways: How to Cook Miso Soup

66 Ways: How to Cook Miso Soup


Time for a miso soup primer: You may recall a post on miso soup I wrote last winter, where I lamented the lack of variety of this most fundamental of Japanese dishes here in America. Yes, we know tofu and wakame seaweed with white miso, the default soup of sushi joints coast to coast. But there's so much more. In Japan, miso soup reflects the full bounty, breath, spontaneity and endless creativity of the cuisine -- the varieties are mind boggling and delicious. Case in point, the list that follows, sixty six miso soups that a Japanese cookbook editor and fabulous cook named Nobuko-san just sent me. It's a list of her favorite ingredients and combinations of ingredients for miso soup, soups you've got to try.

As I did in my earlier post, I'm going to simply list the combinations of main ingredients and type of miso that Nobuko-san thinks work great together. But fret not -- at the end of the list, I'll include a bunch of helpful notes to assist. Also, check out my interview with cookbook author Hiroko Shimbo that delves even deeper into miso soup (you can never go deep enough!).

I love miso soup. It's delicious, wholesome and healthy, and a terrific way to kick start the day. It's also so fast and easy to prepare. I hope you make miso soup a part of your life, too -- with so many kinds, you'll never get bored! Here now, the list:

  1. Spinach with abura age, white miso
  2. Spinach with atsu age, white miso
  3. Spinach with tofu, white miso
  4. Spinach with swirled eggs, white miso
  5. Spinach with Japanese taro, white miso
  6. Daikon with carrot, red or white miso
  7. Daikon with cabbage, red or white miso
  8. Daikon with daikon leaves (leaves first chopped and stir fried in vegetable oil), red or white miso
  9. Daikon with abura age, red or white miso
  10. Tokyo negi grilled, red or white miso
  11. Tokyo negi and wakame, red or white miso
  12. Komatsuna with abura age, red or white miso
  13. Komatsuna with tofu, red or white miso
  14. Komatsuna chopped and stir fried with sesame oil, red or white miso
  15. Dried shiitake (reconstituted) with tofu, red, white or awase miso
  16. Fresh shiitake with tofu, red or white miso
  17. Fresh shiitake with negi, red or white miso
  18. Fresh shiitake with atsu age, red or white miso
  19. Potato with onion, red or white miso
  20. Potato with wakame, red or white miso
  21. Potato with abura age, red or white miso
  22. Potato with carrot, red or white miso
  23. Potato with daikon, red or white miso
  24. Sweet potato, red or awase miso
  25. Sweet potato with tofu, red or awase miso
  26. Sweet potato with onion, red or awase miso
  27. Burdock with onion, awase miso
  28. Burdock with Japanese taro, awase miso
  29. Burdock with thin sliced pork, awase miso
  30. Burdock with tofu, awase miso
  31. Kabocha , red or awase miso
  32. Kabocha with onion , red or awase miso
  33. Kabocha with wakame , red or awase miso
  34. Kabocha with burdock , red or awase miso
  35. Natto, red miso
  36. Natto with Tokyo negi, red miso
  37. Natto with grilled Tokyo negi, red miso
  38. Asari clams, red or awase miso
  39. Asari clams with fu, red or awase miso
  40. Asari clams with wakame, red or awase miso
  41. Asari clams with abura age, red or awase miso
  42. Asari clams with atsu age, red or awase miso
  43. Asari clams with spinach, red or awase miso
  44. Nameko mushrooms, red miso
  45. Nameko mushrooms with tofu, red miso
  46. Nameko mushrooms with Tokyo negi, red miso
  47. Napa cabbage with tofu, red or white miso
  48. Napa cabbage with abura age, red or white miso
  49. Napa cabbage with atsu age, red or white miso
  50. Shiozake (salted salmon) with tofu, white miso
  51. Shiozake with cabbage, white miso
  52. Cabbage, red, white or awase miso
  53. Cabbage with abura age red, white or awase miso
  54. Cabbage with swirled eggs red, white or awase miso
  55. Cabbage with spinach red, white or awase miso
  56. Cabbage with onion red, white or awase miso
  57. Tofu with wakame, red or white miso
  58. Tofu with abura age, red or white miso
  59. Tofu with fu, red or white miso
  60. Myoga with abura age, white miso
  61. Myoga with atsu age, white miso
  62. Myoga with tofu, white miso
  63. Myoga with wakame, white miso
  64. Snow peas with abura age, red or white miso
  65. Snow peas with atsu age, red or white miso
  66. Nira with swirled eggs, white or awase miso

Notes on miso soup: Miso soup is cooked from dashi (stock), main ingredients, and miso. As you can sense from the list above, the trick is to keep it simple -- for the most part, use just a couple of main ingredients. Nobuko-san paired these ingredients because they taste great together, they're classic seasonal combinations, or offer delightful flavor, texture and/or color contrasts.

For general proportions, to serve 4, cook with 3 cups of dashi, a handful of ingredients, and 3 tablespoons of miso. But this is a general ratio; make sure you taste your soup as you add miso. Also, keep in mind that miso soup isn't clam chowder. In other words, you don't want the bowl to be stuffed with ingredients like a chowder. A good proportion is, say, a third of the bowl ingredients, the rest broth.

To give you an idea of ingredient quantities, for 4 servings of the sweet potato-onion miso soup pictured above, I used a medium (1/2 pound) sweet potato and a small (1/4 pound) onion. You can always add more or less of anything. If you'd like, too, garnish your miso soup with sliced scallions or slivered ginger. Finally, check out this good overview on miso soup in Wikipedia for additional info.

Notes on miso: There are hundreds of kinds of miso in Japan, so which should you use for miso soup? Here are a few things to keep in mind: First, miso is fermented from soybeans, rice and salt, or soybeans and salt, or soybeans, barley and salt. So when you look for miso in a store, check the label - you want it to have just those two or three ingredients listed. Now, you'll notice I list the miso above as "red," "white" or "awase." In its broadest strokes, miso can be characterized as "red" or "white" (yellowish, actually), depending on the length of fermentation. Red (called "aka miso" in Japanese) is fermented longer than white ("shiro miso"), which gives it a more intense flavor profile. Miso fermented with rice is perfect basic miso to keep in the fridge. A tasty aka miso I like is called Sendai miso, from the northern city of Sendai. A good basic shiro miso is Shinshu miso from the Japanese Alps. Both are available in Japanese markets here. Finally, awase miso means blended miso, so mix shiro and aka to create yet another flavor profile. Start with 50/50 then adjust as you like. Try other miso, too. I love mugi miso, for instance, which is miso fermented with barley.

Notes on ingredients:

  • Fu is wheat gluten
  • Komatsuna is a leafy Japanese vegetable
  • Myoga is a fragrant relative of ginger
  • Abura age (pronounced "abura-ageh") are thin slices of tofu deep fried in very hot oil while atsu age are thick slices of tofu deep fried so the outside turns golden but the inside remains white tofu, for both, place in colander and pour boiling water over to remove excess oil before slicing and cooking
  • Asari are small Japanese clams you can substitute with Littleneck clams
  • Tokyo negi are Japanese onions that resemble leeks (but are not leeks), with long white stalks
  • Nira are garlic chives, also called Chinese chives
  • Natto is fermented soybeans
  • Wakame is a type of edible seaweed; soak in water to reconstitute
  • Burdock, or gobo in Japanese, is an earthy root that you must first clean by scraping with the back of a knife, then cut into shavings like you're shaving the end of a pencil (a method called sasagaki)

Slicing ingredients: Remember that you want all your ingredients to be cut small enough so they can easily be handled with chopsticks. A couple of classic cuts for veggies are half moons, gingko leaves (quarter moon) and thin rectangles. In the miso soup pictured above, I cut the sweet potato into gingko leaf shapes and thinly sliced the onions.

How to cook miso soup: Peparing miso soup is a very simple three-step process:

  1. Cook dashi, or stock. You can prepare a basic kombu-katsuobushi dashi or iriko dashi for miso soup (by the way, niboshi are similar to iriko). Alternatively, you can take the expedient route and use dashi packs. Dashi packs look like oversized tea bags filled with freeze-dried dashi ingredients. Stick them in water and bring to a boil, cook for 5 minutes, then remove, and you've got dashi in a snap. I use all-natural dashi packs I buy at Japanese markets all the time.
  2. Poach your ingredients in boiling dashi until they just cook through. Be careful not to overcook. Think about the nature of your ingredients. If you're cooking with roots or potatoes, add those first, then the other, faster-cooking ingredient (like a leafy green).
  3. When your soup ingredients are ready, turn off the heat (so the miso doesn't cook). Now it's time to dissolve the miso into the soup. Submerge a wire strainer into the broth and stir in spoonfuls of miso, pressing them against the strainer to combine with the hot liquid. Taste and see if you want to add more miso. Now the soup's ready to serve!

How to swirl in eggs: For variations that call for swirling in eggs, here's how you do it: beat a couple of eggs in a small bowl (or mug). After you add the miso, heat the soup again to just about boiling. Now, rest a pair of chopsticks on top of the bowl with the eggs. Lift the bowl over the soup and tilt it while holding the chopsticks, so the chopsticks are vertical. Pour the eggs so they trickle down the chopsticks and into the soup. Make a circular motion while you do this, so you swirl in the eggs. Don't mix, let the eggs set on their own. Serve immediately.

Finally, I'd love to hear from all of you: What kinds of miso soups do you like to cook? What are some of your favorite varieties? What questions do you have about cooking miso soup? Unclear about anything? Please let me know in the comments.

(Thank you, Nobuko-san!)

Posted by Harris Salat in Soup | Permalink | Comments (12) | Email | Print

Comments (12)

Mmmmm... asari clams with wakame or spinach in miso soup. The best. My 8 year-old son adores Japanese food, and we make simple miso soup with silken tofu pretty regularly. You wouldn't believe how excited he gets about a bowl of soup! Good miso soup is so easy to make, I can't believe anyone would ever use the "instant" miso packets you see at American grocery stores. I made the mistake of trying those once - yuck. Never again.

Lovely photo.

Harris, I am somewhat embarrassed but since you mentioned you do it yourself, I use the Japanese Miso packets that come from Japan. The most amazing thing I find about these, is that the soup doesn't come out 'salty' and is actually quite a better taste than the miso soups I have had in Sushi restaurants. The dried Tofu, the dried scallions when re-constituted in the soup is 'doggone good'.

I use these packets as a base when I do a 'hot pot'.

One cannot compare the taste of these packets, like the American versions of either canned or packet soups. Like everything Japanese, they have figured out a method of dehydrating Miso soup so that when re-hydrated it is spectacularly good.

Dear Harris, Out hear on the edge we have a local company- Soy Bean Jozo Co.(soybean1@yahoo.com)That makes " homestyle" miso. Their product is natural w/ no alcohol preservatives. Wonderful toothsome flavor. They also have just come out with a chickpea miso. I look forward to exploring your suggestions and ringing in the New Year!
Hi Natalie. Thanks for your comment. What I use are "dashi packs" to quickly make dashi. These packs are freeze-dried, all-natural dashi ingredients packed a large tea-bag-like bag. You stick one in water, bring to heat and cook for 5 minutes, and presto, you've got dashi for miso soup. I'm going to post pictures of these soon. -- Harris

Ton-Jiru!!! Perfect for the winter season.

Dashi, Sliced Pork Belly, Gobou, Carrots, Potatoes, Konyaku, Onions, Spring Onions, Ginger, and rich Miso like Kidaru Jukusei Miso.

A bowl of rice, tonjiru, perhaps a grilled fish and otsukemono.

#36 in your list is my typical late-start breakfast choice, accompanied with green tea and brown rice with an umeboshi.

Another one I make a lot is chicken meatball / sauerkraut / negi with shiro miso. Not very "traditional Japanese", but very good.

Now I must take myself off to the Asian market and find out about dashi packs...another staple to add to the 'All Things Asian'cupboard of mine.
Happy New Year Harris! Thanks for the list! I've never tried adding myoga to miso soup- it sounds lovely! How about nasu with myoga? They go so well together. I also like kenchinjiru. More like a stew than soup. I added some leftover osechi-ryori vegetables to my miso soup the other day & it was also very good. I love sato-imo in miso soup.
Harris - thanks for this post! How long does miso last before it goes bad? I bought some a few weeks ago and had made soup, but is it still good? Or is it like yogurt that goes bad and I should toss it? What about seaweed? I used fresh salted seaweed for the base... would that still be good if I kept it in the fridge??
Hi Sara, Thanks for your comment! Miso is a naturally preserved food that can last in the fridge for months, so I'm sure the miso you bought a few weeks ago is fine. What kind of seaweed are you referring to? I'm not sure. Is this wakame, kombu? -- Harris
Amazing guide you have here, very handy. However, I find that my all time favorite Miso soup ingredient is AWOL from your list: PUMPKIN! Sweet kabocha really rounds out miso soup, especially if you pair it with Onions and Wakame.
Thank you for posting such a great list! I have recently started including miso soup as part of my breakfast, and really only knew a basic recipe. Since I am cooking for one person, I admit to using hon-dashi granules for the stock, as anything else I have tried makes too much, and I dislike waste. Currently I add wakame and scallions to my miso - so I was getting bored! I am going to try a few slices of seasonal squash and greens tomorrow - I am thinking butternut and kale. Thank you for the inspiration!

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