Nabe

Calling all friends of the Japanese Food Report around the world! Just in time for winter, Chef Tadashi Ono and I have started a new project: To write a Japanese hot pot cookbook for the Ten Speed Press, one of America's most prestigious cookbook publishers. We're whipping up hotpots fast and furious, but we need your help. We're now organizing a team of volunteer hot pot recipe testers to help us evaluate the dishes we put together.

This hotpot hails from the far northern island of Hokkaido, a snowy, remote region famous for its salmon, crab, cattle and potatoes (an influence of nearby Russia), among other ingredients. It's called ishikari nabe in Japanese, in honor of Hokkaido's Ishikari River.

"There are no rules for making nabe," said Chef Ono, as we got to talking about Japanese hotpot cooking to me the other night at Matsuri restaurant. I've been fascinated by this homey soul food, as readers of the Report know (see posts here and here), and wanted to learn more -- and understand what hotpots say about Japanese cuisine as a whole.

After I wrote about nabe, or home-style hotpot cooking, last month, I asked a friend in Japan to research the many regional varieties of this social and comforting soul food. She just sent me a list of twenty styles of nabe, dishes prepared with salmon, tuna, octopus, pork, chicken, root vegetables, even wild boar and snapping turtle. These hotpots all reflect local foods, customs and geography, and their histories and lore are absolutely fascinating: One traces back to the cooking of Japanese pirates, another originated with bear hunters. There's a nabe invented by sake makers living inside breweries during production season and one that's supposed to be eaten in the dark (yikes!). There's even a nabe invented in 2005 to commemorate the merger of three cities. Like I said, fascinating.

On my trip to Japan last month I was invited to three homes for three wonderful home-cooked meals -- and each was one a different kind of nabe, or hotpot. Nabe...