Tokyo

The intense, caramel aroma of freshly roasted hojicha tea is what first stopped me in my tracks on Amazakeyokocho Street.

Here's some of what I found at the Katsuura morning market, an hour and a half outside Tokyo: Just caught horse mackerel, anchovy, bonito, tuna, orange-colored kinme and metallic-skinned sanma shaped like the blade of a knife. Three foot wild yellowtail (buri) and young wild yellowtail (warasa) resting in tubs of slushy ice.

Lloyd Nakano is one of Tokyo's top hoteliers. He's also a guy from Hawaii who knows his food. I was lucky enough to spend an eve with him in Tokyo. Around...