Lightly Cured Pickles (Tsukemono)
Here's the final recipe from Atsushi Nakahigashi's class the other week at the Brooklyn Kitchen: Lightly cured pickles. I've talked about Japanese pickles on this blog before (here, here, here and here) -- so you know I've never been totally comfortable with the word "pickles" which, in America at least, conjures a fat, heavily vinegared, emerald-green Vlasic. The Japanese version is a totally different animal -- err, I mean vegetable -- lightly cured so the intrinsic character of the ingredient being pickled is never lost. There are a number of Japanese pickling methods. This one is great with a slew of vegetables, like red radish, turnips, daikon skin, daikon, cabbage, carrot, broccoli stems, and Japanese cucumber. Here's the technique:
1/2 cup vegetables, thinly sliced
1/2 tablespoon salt
1/2 cup dashi
1 teaspoon usukuchi soy sauce
3 teaspoons rice vinegar
1 pinch sugar
1 Japanese dried red chili, seeds removed
- Combine the vegetables and salt in a bowl. Mix with your hands for about 2 minutes, squeezing the vegetables to release their bitterness. You'll see a brown liquid in the bowl, that's the bitter flavor of the vegetables. Let the vegetables sit for 10 minutes at room temperature.
- Rinse and squeeze the vegetables. Repeat until they taste just they taste a bit saltier than you think food should taste (if that makes sense!)
- Add the dashi, soy sauce, vinegar, sugar and chili. Transfer the contents of the mixing bowl -- vegetables and liquid together -- to a zip-lock bag. Seal the bag and squeeze the vegetables inside for about 30 seconds.
- Let the vegetables cure inside the bag in the refrigerator for about 20 minutes, or (better) overnight